November

November 15 to December 9th 2001

Slainte and her crew; Sandy Rehm, Allan and Liz on board, have had some learning experiences. This has been targeted to the electricity systems. As the last log shared, we picked up Sandy Rehm and left Chula Vista within an hour of our targeted time. We caught the falling tide back to San Diego (about 19 miles up the bay). We fueled in Shelter Harbor and motored back out past beautiful yachts, especially the ones at the San Diego Yacht Club, including “Stars and Stripes”, an America’s Cup vessel.

We started out with two plans, either slip into Ensenada and clear into Mexico or stay out at the Islas Coronados (Crown Islands). Since the sun was setting rapidly, we anchored in the night on the south island of the Coronados. We thought the anchorage was rolly, but we found rollier anchorages. We were finally in Mexico abet only four miles.

We headed to Bahia (Bay) San Quintin, our first overnighter. We caught tuna and ate sushi and fish tacos. We motored most of the night of the 16/17th. We entered the bay under fog and bright sunshine and we listened to the college football games carried on AM radio. The point (Cabo or Cape) had some swell and it was not evident that we were in a bay. There were considerable breakers on shore. Including us there were seven boats. I took a swim to catch Liz’s top that had blown off of the lifelines. This was our first meeting of “Dream Catcher” who offered to snag Liz’s top but I was in need of a cool off.

About 11 am the next day, Slainte headed off toward Isla San Jeronimo (Geronimo). This was about 37 km south. Again we watched the water temperature rise. Again we arrive at late dusk. We need to stop this late arrival since there’ll will be anchorages that need sunlight. Heavy kelp beds and a reef on the southwest point surround this island. Here was where we anchored in the accompaniment of two other sailboats, one Mariah II who we got to meet and enjoy their company in many ports on our way to Cabo San Lucas. Even anchored in twenty feet we were a hundred yard off shore and we took compass measurements of the other sailboats, the point and the lighthouse. The wind piped up to 25 knots during the evening and Liz and I we’re cautious and woke up frequently.

November 19th we left Jeronimo and headed in shore inside the Arrecefe Sacramento, a reef, that was barely above the sea. We headed out sailing, but we were slow. When I bought up the anchor there was a large piece of cable wire on the blade of the anchor. I went back to see if we had wrapped this wire on the prop. Shit, sure enough there was a cable caught between our keel and the rudder. Sandy and I pulled and pulled and what we brought to the surface was not the cable, but a lobster pot and it’s rope and float. Bumber, there were no lobsters in the pot. We sailed most of the day arriving behind Punta (point) San Carlos. We covered only 19 km in the south direction. We had sail beyond San Carlos, but the wind had piped up to 32 knots and we we’re expecting a hard night with crappy seas, so we took a hard right and retraced some of our steps. After a great dinner I was fishing and promptly dropped my fishing rod and reel in to the 26 feet of water. The next morning I tried with my scuba gear to find the rod, but visibility was less than 1 foot with much drifting sand. I soon gave up.

We left San Carlos headed between Mariah II and Mirador, for a overnighter to Turtle Bay. We have no spare electricity and are operating with no radar and limited night navigation lights. Mariah sailed most of the night and we allow our windvane to steer until the morning when the winds petered-out. The sunrise was spectacular. We pasted Mariah and later we found out that perturbed their crew.

We arrived in Turtle Bay (Bahia San Bartolome) about 2 pm. There were 18 other sailboats and several other motor vessels anchored out. In the four days we spent here we fueled, watered and met many other cruisers. We got really acquainted with Mariah II, Cheerios and Dream Catcher. Cheerios (Laine and Peter) and Dream Catcher (Jennifer, Merritt and Tori) met us after visiting the Super Mercado (grocery store) and comparing Tequila pricing. Both of us bought a beehive, or a fifth for 240 pesos (about $2.60). It is cut with water but mixes great. We thought of sending all of friend’s tequila that cost 240, boy they’d be impressed. We drank they’re Xmas presents, sorry.

Since we arrived yesterday we’ve worked on our electrical problems since our alternator (s) have crapped out. This eliminates, radar, GPS, computer, VHF refig lights and my hair cutters. This also meant that my turkey dinner became crab and lobster bait. The turkey had a spritzy smell to it. Sandy and Liz had lobster for breakfast this morning. Liz traded four buds for four (1.5 lbs) lobsters. I had special wieners and they eat lobsters. Sandy calls them super wieners, though. My turkey is at the bottom of the bay and chicken was our Thanksgiving dinner, with a bit of tequila and champagne.

Today we fueled and the Mexican meters can get 15.5 gallons in a 13-gallon jug. Hummmmmm? Both Sandy and my beard are scruffy and gray. We are distinguished. We are gentlemen of the sea. Liz has big bruises and frizzy hair. No deodorant (oops tequila setting in) but we still smell sweet. We're all in shorts, cuz its 70 at 8pm. Way passed our bed times. We love you all and in spite of adversity there is joy in accomplishment. Volts and amps are cool. Lets hope they keep coming.

Oh the wind autopilot is yummy and works great in most winds. What shall we name her????. Please suggest a name.

I spent two days in the engine room working on electricity generation. I failed, boy that pisses Mr. Electron off. Peter and Laine from Cheerios loan us their generator and we filled our house batteries. That was very kind. There is a special community here. Also during the evenings we had Mariah II over and had a special time. Boy those Canadian are cool, especially Stephanie, James and Eamon (Amon).

Finally we left on the 25th and arrived at Bahia Asuncion. Here we sailed and caught fish. We anchored behind a small village and past an island that stinks. According to Charlie’s Charts. ”If you’re a keen bird-watchers, capable of withstanding the stench of mound of fresh and aging guano….” The island is a bird sanctuary. We just made the anchorage at dusk and Mariah II came in about 2 hours later. We were all tired. The wind blew all night, exceeding 25 knots and thankfully no swell.

Today is Monday the 26th of November. We sailed from Bahia Ascension to Abreojos, about 50 km. We only sailed and used the engine as we work between the shore and the reefs. Most of the sailing was on a beam reach.

This morning brought us hundreds of dolphins. I pulled in the fishing lures many times just to be sure of their of the safety. I sat on the bowsprit and there were up to ten dolphins under me at all times. These were only six feet from my hand. I could hear them squeaking.

Fishing was not as good as yesterday. We hooked two fish and only landed a small seven-pound tuna. We had on the line a thirty lb tuna, but we had navigation on our minds and how close the reefs were. So now Mr. Tuna speaks with a lisp.

We now sit in the cabin after watching a beautiful sunset with phenomenal pink colors. Rum with Mexican juice is warm and a nice reward. I will be eating yellowtail on my past and Sandy and Liz will have three lobsters on their pasta. The wind continues at about 20 knots and all of us have had showers from the sun-shower. Life is gooooooood!

Tomorrow we’ll run 140 nm to Bahia Santa Maria, a wild wonderful and secluded bay, about 200 mile north of Cabo San Lucas.

Today is Wednesday the 28th, we are in Bahia Santa Maria. As we made the turn to the bay, I went down to sleep from approximately 18 miles from the turn. The sun was coming up and the dolphins were skipping in the wake. After my sleep I woke, Liz and Sandy were making the turn to the half moon bay. We could see nine other sailboats in the bay. Some we hade seen before, some we had only heard on the radio. Later after anchoring I, sat on the bow in one of our Wal-Mart deck chairs, with a box of Chardonnay, a handful of carrots and a stinky cigar ( and we all know what Allan can do with carrots). The carrots were still crunchy, the sun still warming and Aaron Neville was playing on the battery operated disk player. Life allows, excellent reflection. It is now 5 PM or 12 Zulu (Greenwich Mean Time). We have sent several emails via San Luis Obispo site on our Sailmail account, hoping to get boat parts when we reach Cabo.

This bay is shaped like a large crescent moon. Hold up your right hand, making a backwards “C.” Crook your forefinger down a bit and that is what the bay is shaped like. From five to 18 boats have anchored here in the past four days. There are two hills that are on the crooked finger and these protect us from the west and NW winds.

At the head of the bay there are two lagoons with mangroves that grow on the side of the channel. There are three fishing camps (shacks with pangas) up the most west lagoon. Jerry from Mirador, Sandy and I made it over the surf and went 2+ miles to the end of the lagoon. In the water we could see skates, herring, crabs, other large fish and tons of different birds.

Even thought we have cruised for only two months, there is a special cruising community forming. We see a gathering of some that want to share the immediate and past challenges and also those that standoff--- but will gather later.

Right now, the hills (that appear to be sheltering the many chukars - I used to hunt) are gathering their shadows as the sun sets. The perspectives of light shares theirs views and the skies overshadows the waters with inkyness. Tonight the waters have yielded lobsters and fish. Life has taught us that joy comes through observation of our surroundings. – Thank you Cynthia Warner, (belief is always possible). The sun is still lower, it reveals land and beach in clarity, but for only a moment. The edges are sharp and colors are deepening, and the distinction between land and sky is disappearing. Presently, there are 14 sailboats in the bay (a community). Tomorrow should be fun.

Also while in this bay, w snorkeled and several of us went a shore and climbed up the arroyo to see the Pacific Ocean on the other side. We went with Dream Catcher and Cheerios. The top was cool with a cool breeze filtering up the arroyo. We could see into Bahia Magdelena. This also called Mag Bay, it is a 13 mile bay with several small villages and a Port Captain. We have heard that this Port Captain charges fees plus something extra. We all choose to skip the bay. At the top we ate sweetened papaya (bought a Portland’s Costco), lemon cookies and jerky. I was eye’n Laine’s (Cheerios) water cuz it had ice in it.

Life is good and we haven't worn anything but shorts and a tee shirt. It got down to 68 last night, burr, and at 9:30 am it is 75 degrees. Liz and Sandy have had over a dozen lobsters in the past week including 3 two nights ago. I get tuna, chicken or a cheese dish, whoooooope.

December 3rd, about 5:45 am we headed to Cabo about 180 km. I am sure glad Sandy is here hauling up the anchor with me by hand. The electric windlass is waiting until mayanana. The anchor has held in place for four days and was firmly planted in the sand bottom. There are sevens of us that are spread about 50 miles apart. This past November a commercial marine store sponsored the "Baja HA HA." This group of 140+ vessels did the Western Baja in 10-12 days with two stops. Our little group (7-14 vessels) is less organized, drinking more, eating more lobsters, and letting the wind determine the schedule. WE ARE the "Baja Humbug."

The winds are out of the north, sometime shifting to NE or NW. The swells are very short and about 5-7 feet tall. This situation smacks our stern about and we go gunnel to gunnel about 4 times until the boat flattens back out. Shitty if you’re trying to sleep. We are hopefully picking up a regulator that will allow our "new" alternator to give us those lovely electrons. We bought a regulator that should of been self-regulating, but isn't. We'll be dropping Sandy off on the 8th. Maybe on the 8/9th we head for Navidad via PV.

We have gotten to know better other cruisers that are traveling in the same approximate vicinity, Humbuggers. All of us have helped each other. Mirador needed parts for their autohelm and Sandy's friend that headed to Cabo is bringing them. I need some electrons and Cheerios (Peter and Laine) loaned us their generator and some gas. Jerry needed companions to head up the lagoons into the mangrove channels and Sandy and I went with him. We have traded books, stories, had several dinners on other vessels and hosted several ourselves. At Cabo most of us will be separating, perhaps with the idea to cross paths later. I have always said that we can go cruising and take everything but friends. So our friends need to visit. We will take you sailing, snorkeling and fishing and we use your shower at your motel. In the past two weeks we are realizing we are making totally a new set of very interesting friends.

We arrived in Cabo San Lucas at 13:15, December 4th. The topic of the hour is how large are our calluses and why are we sticky (too much salt)? It is 84 degrees and we have hid in the cabin with our wooden mermaid holding the sailboat, gently rocking back and forth in front of our “Peter” name plate. Our wine locker has gone from 85 bottles to twelve.

We have three days to play in Cabo. We will be finding Sandy’s friend, Mary Wiegate. Mary is bringing down to us boat parts. We hope to sample some out of the way eateries, clear our papers and sadly say goodbye to Sandy.

We are finally anchoring in the bay outside of Cabo. We had heard that the area was destroyed as a result of a hurricane that hit Cabo in September this year. One minute we’re in 400 feet of water and then after traveling forty yards the depth is 30 feet. There are huge cruise ships in the bay about 200 yards from us. They keep a steady flow of customers buying (jacked up priced goods) interesting trinkets. Several residents told us not to buy until the last cruise ship left town. Then the prices would be lowered.

I was sitting in the bay, thinking of Spiro and wondering if he had taken advantage of the Para-sailor or the jet-skis, or the daily fishing trips or just the cerevesa? Humm. Liz and I were missing our work friends, Keith, Tina, Steve, Sperp, Al, Priscilla and Rich. We have been gone nearly four months. Every couple of days I feel a change occurring. Either it is the weather, less clothes, tequila, the language or the challenges, but we are adapting to a new way of life, a bit of a transformation.

Peter from Cheerios and I made the choice not to have an agency do our paper for $130 and an additional $23 per person for the tourist visas. So we headed out to find Immigrations, the bank, API (a navy importation agency), customs and the Port Captain. We began at 10 am and finished at 3pm. The cost was $39 plus the $23 per person for the tourist visas and $18 for a taxi. We are officially checked in and have a 10-year document that should help in bringing in boat parts. Many people complain that this process, which must be done at each official harbor, is a pain. I think it is a great way to learn a new community and meet new people. We will test that as we continue our travels.

December 7th Liz and Sandy and I found a special restaurant and had a great meal, thanks to Sandy. The music from the Mariachi band was perfect. Since we slipped into the marina, sleeping without rolling around was different. Unfortunately the 5am “reel” call for the fishing vessels to leave was louder than expected.

We said goodbye to Sandy who has been with us since the 12th of November. He has been “first-class.” He gained new skills, like handing me all sorts of tools, pulling in fish, pulling up anchors, sleeping on a bench, talking on the radio, discovering new stars and eating lobster for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus many other things. He was a hit with several other cruisers as he shared his stories and invited several of them to his house when they come to Portland. Liz and I look forward to his next visit.

We now are preparing to leave Cabo this afternoon (December 9, 2001). We have said goodbye to our special cruisers. This is a difficult process, just after making great connections, but that is part of this life. In some cases we’ll see them later down the coast. In other cases we reassure each other that it truly is a small world and we will see them later.

The new alternator and regulator seem to be working. We will finish preparing by adding more water, some fresh supplies, making some phone calls and sending this message to Tom Perham, webmaster of the SVSLAINTE site.

We look forward to family and friends that will be joining us in Barra de Navidad for the Holiday. We will be spending about two weeks in Navidad, north of Manzanillo. Merry Christmas to you all.

Things we take for granted at home, become something you work at in the new cruising lifestyle. I have been impressed with Allan’s fortitude to solve the electron problems. He has spent countless hours in the engine room with help from Sandy and me in trying to retrace all of our wiring to get to the root of the problem. I think people in our shore life think that all we are doing is drinking and relaxing. Actually, cruising is doing boat maintenance in exotic places.

All in all, it has been very interesting. We now realize we can exist without the comforts of home, i.e. running water, lights, electronics, refrigeration, etc…. but it will sure be nice to have some of that back.

Nov 4th to Nov 8th 2001

This morning we have just arrived in San Diego. We are at the Harbor Police Docks waiting for the fog to clear. We will continue down the SD channel to Chula Vista where our friends Dominique and Julia live on Second Wind (Tayana 37).

The last log was from Sunday the 4^th in Santa Barbara. We left Sunday and arrived at Santa Cruz Island at dusk or a bit later. We anchored in Smuggler’s Cove at the SE end of the island, NW of Anapaca Island. This is about 30 km south of Santa Barbara and 60 east of Redondo Beach. Pelicans everywhere. They travel in herds shaped as V's. Last night with the moon coming up there was baitfish surfacing all around us. I tried fishing but one the first cast I broke my rod. OOPS. It was a rolly night with two other sailboat anchored nearby. We left early on Monday headed for Redondo Beach where we hoped to meet a friend from Boeing, Michael Jackson and Kathleen his wife.

Liz called me up to the cockpit to look at a pod of big water mammals. They were either false killer whales, short-finned pilot whales, or Risso's Dolphins. There were about 20 of them. I turned on the camera and they were gone.

We moored at the King Harbor Yacht Club dock and we were treated elegantly. The _____, Coline? Checked us in and we were ushered to the bar. Here we met Jack, Joan?, Charile? And we traded stories. A little later we met Michael and Kathleen for dinner. The KHYC allowed us to used their phone for email and after a shower we were ready to fuel and head to Santa Catalina Island. Most folks call it Catalina. The biggest harbor is Avalon, which is famous from yester-year celebrities. There used to be huge casino and it is now a theater and museum.

We arrived at dusk or a little later. I wish we could arrived early since the moorage balls are tightly spaced. The harbor boat helped us tie up and then put dye in our head so we would not pump over our waste. All day Wednesday the 7^th we walked around shore. Liz had a hankering for waffles, we were very satisfied at Sally’s. There were several Canadian sailboat that had come down the west coast and were headed in the southerly direction to Mexico. There were three of us that left at dusk and headed to San Diego.

This passage was for 70 miles and would take a night. We arrived in daybreak at the entrance of San Diego harbor. The fog was too thick and we should of stayed offshore until it broke up as hindsight would say. We used the radar and GPS to their fullest and did meet several vessels and complete collision prevention maneuvers. Liz said something about new shorts. Well we are at the Police dock and waiting for the fog to lift. Is 8:12 am too early for a beer, Ruffles and onion dip? We called my mom and Liz is out and I can’t get sleeps so the writing and drink a Tecate. We met more southbound cruisers, Willow with Peg, Jim and Schooner (Portuguese Water Spaniel) on board. It is nice to meet other folks cruising. It broadens our horizons.

We will be San Diego until the 15^th or so. Sandy is flying in tomorrow and will stay with friends and join us Monday the 13^th. Liz and I have a bunch of duties to complete. We need to fix our two alternators, get everyone’s entrance papers from the Mexican consulate, our and get Mexican fishing licensees (5 of them, one each for Liz, Allan, and Sandy, one for the boat and another for our dinghy. We need to re-provision, get some wiring done with the help of Dominique and buy a wind generator and install it. Can we do all this in 6 days and still have fun and hot tube with Dominique and Julia? We are going to try.

Later from Slainte with Allan and Liz on board.