Up
Jan Pics

January 2003 Log

January 1, 2003
The three of us woke refreshed, as we were very quite last night. We hoped into the car and headed to west Panama. Our destination was El Valle, the valley. We stopped at Santa Clara a beach spot where everyone paying for parking and then hung out. Some were under grass-topped huts, some on the beach (about 200) and some hiding from the sun at the tienda. Here you can buy a liter of Coke and a pint or liter of rum. The chicken and fish were great and after our meal we headed up into the hills to El Valle. We drove around in this crater and did the tourist thing by paying money to look at a waterfall. We eventually found a motel with direct TV so I could watch the Rose Bowl. A German owned the motel and he was very hospitable. The Bar/TV room was perfect and the game sucked.


January 2, 2003
We had a good breakfast and headed to Portabella. We dropped back into Panama City and eventually found the right path to Colon. I had a good time waving to the guard at the tollbooth as I passed him again, paying twice as I had gone the wrong direction the first time. We drove around Colon and again we're amazed of the destruction and squalor of the town. Once this town was beautiful and now it is dangerous. We found a great café and had Lebanese and Greek food. We headed back through Colon and found the Gatun Lock. Here Sandra got to observe the locks and the ships transiting the locks. We also drove to the dam.

We left the locks and drove around lost but found several special spots including a beautiful hotel. It was part of the army facilities and now is a 5 star hotel. We eventually found the road to Portabella and after an hours drive we stayed at a dive hotel. Their meals were great and we retired early.

January 3, 2003
I woke up early and walked down to the dock to take a picture of the sunrise. I walked by a table that had 2 bottles of Tequila, 2 bottles of Scotch, 2-3 bottles of wine and a bottle of MD (Mad Dog). At the end of the dock there are two hammocks and one was filled with a last nights partier. He had slept face down and the netting was imprinted on his cheeks.

I retreated to the beach and grabbed a hammock and after 3 minutes ran back to the room. The no seems were thick and hungry. Even back in the room I carried several of them and they continued to bit even though I had liberally applied insect repellant. I returned and talked Sandra and Liz into rising and we headed to Portabella. There are two forts in or around Portabella and another fort across the bay. The three of us walked through the forts, around the cannons and explored the turrets. The forts are made of rocks and coral. Years ago, 1550 when the forts were built, coral was easier to cut than the stone. For a 400-500 year old structure the stonework is phenomenal. The cut outs for the cannons and also for the muskets have been preserved. It is easy to imagine the lifestyle during the days that the forts were constructed to guard the "Kings" gold. We walked over to the King's building where the gold was counted. It has been preserve and was updated by Spain in the past 10 years. Many Panamanian were upset that Spain updated this building. These comments were about Spain still melding in Panama and the fact that those that updated this building killed a lot more coral.

We headed back to our lodging and had breakfast and we drove back toward Panama City. On the way back we visited a town along the Caña l called Gamboa. We found a very elegant hotel and watch the taped college football game of USC vs. Iowa. The three of us drove around the hotel and visited the Serpentiarn (snake house), the butterfly house and their aquarium. No one was around so we just explored. The snake house made Sandra squirm. The butterflies were beautiful, especially the huge blue ones.

We drove around a bit longer and headed to Panama City. We are getting the hang of driving in this country.

January 4, 2003
We woke up early, as we need to get Sandra and Ross to the airport. Liz and I are bummed, as Sandra was great to have on the boat. We arrived easily, not getting lost in the city and arrived at the airport with 2 hours prior to their takeoff. After Sandra was dully hugged Liz and I drove back to the car rental business and turned in the car. I was great to have the car, but nice not have the liability. Thief and crazy taxis and buses cause the blood pressure to elevate.

January 5, 2003
Found that we had huge charges to Mary Kay Cosmetics and Liz was sick with a flu bug. Liz worked the telephones but Boeing Employee's Credit Union (BECU) had a short staff and their efforts were pathetic. There were three separate charges totally over $1,100. That is a lot of lipstick.

January 6, 2003
I spent the morning changing oil and transmission fluid and Liz went to doing laundry. We both did the interneting opportunity.

January 7, 2003
Today we worked the Internet and banking system. We withdrew $500 as a cash withdrawal because our ATM ability hasn't worked since Golfito, Costa Rica. Boeing said they'd cover any charges. We then went to do interneting, as Liz needs to fix our banking problems with someone using our charge card.

January 8, 2003
We are starting to get a handle on our bank problems. Someone has charged $1100 worth of Mary Kay Cosmetics to my card. I wish I was the beneficiary and was looking great, but that is not the case. Our credit union is helpful, but being so far away is frustrating.

January 9, 2003
I think we have decided to head to Ecuador and then slog the 1800 miles or 20 days to northern Mexico. Therefore we are beginning the provisioning process for the things we think we cannot find in Ecuador and definitely out at sea. Boy, that is a lot of time going to weather.

January 10, 2003
Today is fix the computer day. We have a virus we cannot get rid of and our keyboard is sticking. We find out about an IBM service outlet and with our Spanglish go to town to tell them what is wrong. We also find a great restaurant to have pot stickers. Then we went off to do some provisioning for going to Ecuador. We arrive back at the boat and fix dinner for the folks on Rigo have been to Ecuador twice. We learned a lot about the county and decide we want to try to hit the mainland as well as the Galapagos.
 

January 11, 2003
Liz and I walked to Flamenco marina and said hi to Mandorla as they have been hauled and putting in a new engine. We did chart shopping and interneting. We met with Rico, Steve and Ileana. Steve and I shopped for CD burners and travel books. I was fortunate to find a super quick burner that fit my firewire connection. We all hustled back to the boat as we are joining Moonshadow for dinner and the new James Bond movie. The movie was great and so were the two pounds of ribs I eat. Oh goodness I eat too much, but I missed lunch and will walk tomorrow.

January 12, 2003
We started the day walking to the Smithsonian facilities and showering. We worked some boat and computer projects. We had planned to do Dim Sum at Lung Fung with Siren's Song. Lindy had just arrived late and decided to relax. We hung at the boat and waited for happy hour.

January 14, 2003
Liz checked out and I did computer stuff and checked our mail at PMBC. We were able to catch up with Lindy at their boat for dinner and hear all about what is going on in the states as well as her family. Ruck cooked fajitas and we enjoyed the evening.

January 15, 2003
Ran around the town fixing the computer and got more cash for the trip to Ecuador. We did last minute shopping for being away from stores for a while. We cleaned the boat and moved to the Flamenco marina and had a lovely dinner with Volontis. Their children had grown since we had seen them in Santa Elena after our hit of lightening. Laurence cooked a great Italian meal with an excellent roasted squash soup as a starter.

January 16, 2003
Fueled and relaxed and waited for Elskan to have dinner and were also able to get the boat tidied and things stowed for heading out to the Las Perlas. We had a lovely dinner with Randy and Lisa on our boat, enjoying pasta. It will be hard not to be doing the coast route with them home, as we really enjoy them.

January 17, 2003
We left Panama City, motored and charge the batteries. We arrived at Conchadora. Walked the island and showed Greg and Meg on the Wet Bar what we'd seen before in trips with Tom, Sandra, Walt and Cathie's earlier visits. Liz made a bean dish that was great for dinner.

January 18, 2003
We motored from Conchadora and set sail immediately and caught a Cero. We call Meg on the Wet Bar and she was fixing Cannelloni's for dinner, so the Cero would have to wait. We worked through the rocks and anchored south of the island Viveros, just off of Playa Brava beach. There was a nasty westerly swell but we smoothed that out with another beer. Dinner was great and we listened to music and chatted. We enjoyed a warm and great night with special friends.

January 19, 2003
We had a better sleep as the reef canceled out the westerly swell. Greg and I fished for 3 hours and not a bite. We came to Slainte for Cero, wrapped in bacon dinner. Meg brought us some of her flowers that Greg had bought her. A very lovely gesture.

January 20, 2003
We chatted on the net and eventually dinghied with "the Bar Tender" to find a beach know for its orange and purple scallops shells. We had a picnic on the beach and sorted through the orange shells, played "shell Frisbee, and just hung in the water getting sun fried. Liz looks like a reddish lobster. We also left the beach and spruced up and had a fish fry. There are 3 pounds of Cero and we eat it all. The wind piped up and we splashed home. I took a freshwater sponge bath and life was good.

January 21, 2003
We had hard winds throughout the night peaking at 26 knots. The anchor held very well and we didn't rock. The 10,000 lb of lead that is our keel puts a damper on rocking. I got 5 gallons of diesel from Wet Bar and was surprised that it only took 5 gallons to fill our tank. We have motored a total of 14 hours and we took 5 gallons to we burned less than 4 tenths of a gallon per hour, which is very low consumption. Both Liz and I blew into the fuel vent to make sure we didn't have an air lock so we know we are full.

Greg was siphoning out the fuel using a transfer pump and we also sucked their diesel generator dry. After an hour Greg had bled the fuel lines, filters and injectors the diesel generator ran again. Greg was unhappy for this unexpected job.

It was tough to say goodbye to another set of friends. We watched them unanchor and travel away down the channel and then out and toward Panama City. They had to go as they are pulling the Wet Bar and painting her bottom. We hope to see them again in Seattle or visit them wherever the Wet Bar is located.

Today we took the dinghy to several small islands, reefs and beaches nearby the anchorage and looked in the tide pools for interesting shells and fish. We found some very distinct eco-systems in each of the reefs and islands that are sometimes covered by water. We got back to the boat, had some lunch and then motored to an anchorage called La Minia. It was recommended highly by other cruisers, but we thought it was a bit over rated. We caught a large yellow snapper and had rice, steamed fish and canned corn. About midnight we were awakened to a different sound on the anchor chain and very soon after that were touching bottom on a very low tide. Sand bottom, so it was not a problem, but Allan stayed up till the tide rose and we were off the bottom.

January 22, 2003
We set sail with coffee and cribbage board and are heading to Isla Del Rey, Espirtos de Santos anchorage. Allan has already beaten me one game in cribbage and it isn't even noon. We decided to go further as we have some wind to Isla Caña. We put down the hook around 5 pm and then headed out for fishing. Allan caught a Cero that we had as sushi while listening to NPR on the armed forces radio. (So far I have won all six games)

January 23, 2003
This morning I awoke to Allan off fishing. Nice sail to another island and then fought the current to our night anchorage. Fish for dinner and a great fresh salad.

January 24th 2003
We listened to the net and check in with Kynda. We hope to meet them at Isla Caña and then early tomorrow take off for the Darien region and up the rivers. We cleaned the hull and washed sheets as we waited for the net. After the net a nice man paddled up with his wooden dugout and offered us limes. We gave him $3 and some candy and coffee. We were going to bring back some coconuts but the wind really whipped up. Liz and I went up the Cacique River and quit after a half a mile. We left too late and the tide was really dropping and there were some large rock and I only have on prop for the dinghy. I spotted a river sand crab and dug him up. The crab was florescent blue on its legs. I held it like I always do with Northwest Dungeness crabs but he grabbed my pointer finger and in a split second I had two holes in the finger. Bass Turd, really crab turd. In two seconds he buried himself in the sand and I left him alone. We are preparing to venture out as the wind is now blowing 15 to 25 right on our nose but we only have 12 miles to go back to Caña island, to meet Kynda.

January 25th 2003
We got the anchor up at 7 am and pointed out to Gulfo San Miguel. We caught the tide wrong and had a 3-knot current slowing our progress. We decided to stop short of the destination of La Palma and stay off of the River Estero Cagao. The river's bar really shoals quickly going from 15 feet to 3 feet in a length of 50 feet. There is a small point that is sheltering us from the north winds. We sailed past Isla Los Bogales, a group of 6-7 islands. These gave us thoughts of the northwest island of the San Juan's and Gulf Islands. Even though we wear very little clothes and if we were cruising in the northwest and had to wear clothes we believe that that cruising area is one of the world's most beautiful.
 

January 26th, 2003
Hi from Slainte, we upped anchor and moved 7 miles to La Puntita. We took the shortcut, that I call the ditch and round the corner starring at La Palma. Liz and I and Peter and Linda on Kynda arrived in the Darien region this morning. Our lat/long is 8 25 N and 78 10 W, as the crow flies about 3,300 from Cashmere, WA, 3,600 from Africa, 2,000 from Boston, MA, 4,500 from Hawaii, 3,800 from the Cape Horn. We are now anchored off of La Puntita, south of the main town, La Palma about a half mile. We are in the Darien region... probably the last untouched place in Central America. We are up a set of river estuaries. The local population is the indigenous people (Indians) and escaped slave descendants from Africa that settled here 150 years ago. We are anchored just south of the state capital of the Dariens, Las Palma with 4,500 people. You wouldn't know that from looking at the village, but it is a capital of this side of Panama. We are very remote, because there is only one road that leads here and that is 15-20 miles away. In between the distance has to be traveled by boat. Even though our Spanish still lacks, these people are kind, gentle and very friendly to these two white gringos....

We went ashore and visited with Jim Brunton. He is very interesting; he owns a software company, a restaurant in Maine and is building a 92-foot wooden ketch. He originally came here in the Peace Corp in the early 60's and developed many special relationships. We explored the ketch that they hope will be finishing in August. After talking with Jim and several of his friends/employees I believe they have much greater work to finish the vessel. They still need to install standing rigging (wire/rod), running rigging (lines/rope), water maker, windlass, winches, heating/cooling equipment, electrical, plumbing and the engine and auxiliary generation. The vessel is nearly finished with the decks, hull and inside structure completed and now needs the finish work. The have excellent skills woodworking, but the next steps require hard money for equipment that is not available locally.

They will use this boat to promote the region; the Indians that have helped build this vessel and the rain forest. The vessel will draw 8-9 feet and displaces 160,000 pounds. The main mast is 100 feet and the mizzen 60 feet. The keel of lead weighs 60,000 of that, the planking is 3 inches thick, the teak decks are over 2.5 inches, all of the ribs are natural bends from trees that grew this way and the main framing is iron wood from a tree cut locally. This tree was 60 feet long and 7 feet wide and weighed over 40,000 pounds and had to be cut in two to move it. This vessel is lo be loaned free to organizations that raise money for the local Indians and the rain forest.

Liz and I are donating our hard dinghy to them. Jim has been very gracious in accepting our donation. Vance on of Jim's employees loves to sail and he is looking forward to bending the dinghies sail. Tomorrow we are catching a ponga to a small village with the residents that are known for their carving and weaving. This area is similar to the Columbia River yet the river is much deeper. The town of La Palma is about 4,500 persons. There are about 50 structured groups (villages) consisting of 5-6 tribes of locals spread throughout the river system. There are 40 plus named rivers in this system. Last week in this area, actually north of here 40 miles, where it connects to Columbia call the Darien Gap, a Columbia paramilitary group "kidnapped" three or four Americans, including a travel writer. We believe they were released the next day. Most of the traffic is by boat, ponga, but we saw two cars. The road is cement that is only 500 yards long and then it turns in to dirt/mud (depending on what season). There is beer and diesel and fresh camarones and vegetables here and life is good except listening to the Super Bowl on the Arm Forces Radio.

January 27th 2003
We have a panga coming at 9 am to take us up one of the river where we can trade and buy carving and baskets from the local Indians. We are catching the incoming tide and the ride should be about 1.5 hours. Liz and I are packing our supplies we purchased for trading; coffee, dried milk and the universal kid trading form called candy.

The panga ride was 1.5 miles each way and we passed several dugout canoes with everyone friendly and returned our waves. I believe we traveled about 15 miles up river to Puerto Lara.

Yesterday, we hired a panga driver (small dugout with motor) to take us 2 hours up the rivers to a village, Puerto Lara to buy baskets and weavings. We arrived and the entire village came to meet us. The women were bare chested with dark, but semi-washable dye designs on their bodies. The men dressed more modern. We traded items and spent over $100 to buy baskets that would be 10 times that in the states. The women are known for their basket weavings... very small weaves.... the baskets take several months to complete. The homes are on stilts and the village was spotless. The president met us and called upon his villagers to meet with us and talk and trade. Unbelievable experience We are truly in an untouched part of the world. Not to say we have not been in remote places before, but this is where Latin America meets the 21st Century.

We delivered our hard dinghy with sailing rig to the man from Boston/Connecticut that is building his second wood sailing vessel here that he intends to lend to charitable organizations to promote this environment and the Indians. What makes him different is that he is looking for solutions that keep the Indians the caretakers of the land while able to forest, plant, fish and keep the natural land. He came here 30+ years ago with the Peace Corp and has been coming back every year since then. In the meantime he became a successful software developer/entrepreneur. In delivering the dinghy I thought I would motor to the closest spot to where they are building the ketch. I got out and sank to my thighs in mud, crotch is full of mud, my sandals are stuck in the mud two feet below, I reach down suck them back out, and actually swim in the mud. I am a mess. I should of heeded the locals advise and landed up river.

January 28, 2003
We began the day slowly. Kynda has asked Jim Burton and us over for breakfast. I pick Jim up as our dinghy is in the water with the motor on it and we are treated with a great breakfast. We had Caña dian bacon (since they are Caña dians), home fries, eggs and homemade biscuits (made by Liz) and excellent hot sauce. Peter and I drop the ladies off for their shopping and we catch up later and explore the town. Next to the vegetable market Peter and I find beer, $2.25 a pitcher (tankee in Spanish). We carry the shopping stuff back to the boats and Peter and I return to the ketch. We chat about resources, cruising ideas and other ideas that may find them some additional people that could help in finishing of the vessel with specific expertise and discounts on equipment. Peter and I continue the search for beer in a quieter venue and play some cribbage. We finish the day with Liz fixing an excellent soup using our fresh vegetables. We talk about continuing our cruising to Ecuador and come to few conclusions.

January 29, 2003
Went to town and drank beer and had local soup with hair in it. Actually we ordered a 940 ml bottle of Atlas and since our Spanish sucks we got a pitch. We ordered and received the local soup and just as I was swallowing Liz exclaims that an item in her soup has hair on it. It tasted great and the hairy thing was a local root. I tried to order another bottle, but we got another pitcher. Late in the evening we played cards and Peter loves scotch so we drank mine. Liz finished the last inch in one swallow.

January 30, 2003
Said goodbyes to Vance, the project manager of the ketch, got diesel and played cards and said goodbye to Kynda. Getting diesel was a challenge. I dropped Liz off under the buildings and up the cement stairs she went with the jerry jugs. Twenty minutes later she returned and off we went. Liz made a comment that the diesel was again dark. Diesel has been clear since Mexico and I was concerned. I smell the diesel and the fluid was premixed gas. So back to the stairs and I got diesel and back down the stair as Liz was glad to leave as the tide was coming in and the rats were moving about. We moved with Kynda back to our anchorage off of River Estero Cagao.

January 31, 2003
We left the Kynda anchorage and motor/sailed around the bend and up the Sucio River. We followed the path in the Panama Guide. We eventually came to the end of the river and backtracked to a deeper spot in the river where it was 22-24 feet. We are at high tide and low tide should bring us to 9-10 feet of water and our keel is 6 feet giving us a 3-4 foot margin. It took a bit to get the anchor anchored. We drug it 600 feet before we stopped against the current. I even had a beer waiting for the stoppage. It is quite except for the fans in the boat as it is 90 degree inside and outside and no wind. Tomorrow we hope to run the dinghy up the river and visit the Wounaan Indian village of Caña Blanca.