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Log - December 25, 2001I rose about 6:30 in the morning. Most of the town had quite a party. There were many places with many, many empty chair and tables. Lots of tissue and color paper hung or was scattered everywhere. There were many ladies’ quietly sweeping and burning the ruminants of the night’s festivities. All business awoke including the French bakery. Today we joined 4 other sailboats for a Christmas brunch on Starform. Starform is a Gossard 36 with a huge cockpit and a totally open interior. About an hour after we’d settled down with Mimosas and Mango Juice with Tequila (I call that a Tango), when we heard such a clatter, that we climbed the latter, and what did appear were three Santa’s and their single reindeer. See picture. So here we are in the lagoon and four sailors show up dressed for Christmas in their dinghy serving punch. During the next four or five hours we eat and eat and got to know new friends. Louisa from Little Gem brought out her guitar and we sang Christmas carols, and then other ditties. Some were known and other songs were new to us. American Pie, Edmonds Fitzgerald we remembered the lyrics and then there were several new songs that told us of sailing challenges, for example the Anchoring Dance. About 4:30 pm our host was leaving for a music concert. The next day we found they went to the wrong city. Liz and I we’re invited to Little Gem for a cervasa and to view their boat. Little Gem is a Hans Christen Christina 43, beautiful cockpit, lots of room, including a huge galley and wide-open places. We return to the Hotel Defin and again tried to call our family. The lines were busy. We met Lyn and Dale who had flown in from Portland and we had a great reunion. We had dinner at Ambar’s and let them slip to bed early. December 26, 2001 We finally got a hold of our family, the main lines were still busy, and so we had a business place the calls. Their charge was over $1.50 per minute, ouch. It was great to hear our family’s voices. We had a nice breakfast with the Williams and planned the next opportunities. 27th Sandra and Marnee and her kids; Jack and Ally arrived. They are the reason we choose Barra de Navidad as our destination for the Holidays. I thought they had been coming here for 10 years but it has been since 1996. They have been staying at the Hotel Delfin and helped Liz’s parents with Marta the owner of Delfin. Sandra and Marnee arrived and we went out to dinner and then went to bed. Liz and I came home late and decided to wait until the morning to hug them. 28th It was a great reunion and after breakfast we all headed for the sand and the ocean. Marnee rented a boogie board and that proved to be painful as I attempted to gain new skills. The surf was very short and sometimes very high. The beach is very steep and the sand was quite abrasive. The crowd was happy to watch me beat the hell out of my body. I understand there are much better beaches to surf on, but the crowd wanted an encore. Later we all (Lyn, Dale, Paul, Jenaka, Sandra, Marnee, Jack and Ally) went to Ramon’s and mostly had fish and chips that included tempura vegetables and onion rings. 29th Liz and I have taken notice of several things; one is that most of the Mexican beds are very hard and the beds are short. All Mexicans are happy to meet you and will always reply to our hola’s or hello’s, most replying with bienus deis, notches, or tardes, depending on the time of day. Their beds must have been softer than ours. All dogs will adopt Liz and several followed her for many hours. Also the weather is very fine and perhaps that over comes the hard beds. Today we went in search of a boogie board to buy, so we struck off to Maleque. The bus ride was short and our kidneys were challenges on the bumpy road. The ruminants of the 1995 earthquake were very evident. There is a huge cracked hotel on the beach and many buildings just squashed that haven’t been rebuilt. We located a new “pain” board and a snorkel and rode the bus back to Barra. The green parrot on the bus kept Ally happy, in spite of bus queasiness. We said good-bye to Paul and Jenaka, friends that we met on the beach from Seattle. It is always a small world when we chat. Then Ally and I practiced our boarding. I kept less sand out of my shorts this time. We finished the day with a cool swim at the pool and had dinner back at Casa Chips serving a superb “10-napkin” rib barbeque. 30th Today finds us in the planning stage to create a New Years Eve party. Yesterday I asked Marta (owner of Delfin) if we could use her dinning facilities. After some thought she thought that would be fine. There are supposed to be fireworks at the Grand Bay Hotel and so we can use the balcony above Marnee and Sandra’s room to watch the end of the year. We made a list and have around 30 folks that may be interested in our scheme. There is a street vender that barbeques great chicken so we’ll try to strike a deal. The whole chicken comes with rice, tortilla and hot sauce for 60 pesos. So today we’re trying to determine how many will show, this will include 8 to 15 cruisers, the nine of us and several folks we have met along the way. We hope you have a great New Year. 31st Today is New Years Eve and Liz and I have volunteered to have a Party at the restaurant in our hotel, Delfin. We now have a list of 19 cruisers, Starform (Lynn and Terry), Li’l Gem (Louise and Mr. Biaggio), Tundra Spirit (Linda and Brian), Simplicity (Harry and Sandy), Different World, Aegean Odyssey, Falkor (Mike and Barbara), Secret O’ Life (Terry), Poco Loco, Slainte (Liz and Allan), and folks from land including Lyn and Dale, Sandra, Marnee Allie & Jack, Monika, Adam, Sue and 3 kids and then several others that slipped in. The cruisers brought many excellent hoer d’ odvrers and with 2 kilos (4+ lbs) of shrimp and 13 chickens we were set. Louise from Li’l Gem sang and led us on many songs that included the “Splice Girls.” Most of us made it to midnight, but the fireworks were a bust. The huge hotel, Grand Bay is in financial problems so only a lighted sign and a few sparklers. The get together was a great success! January 1, 2002 Today, Lyn and Dale and Allan and I had a nice breakfast and then a beer at the beach before they caught a taxi to the airport to go home. We are very sad to see them go. Later in the day, Allan and Brian watched football and Sandra, Marnee and I did the beach scene. I called Mom and Dad. All is well at home, although they miss Riley, who is vacationing at Sandy and Patricia’s house in Portland. We tried to reach Allan’s mother but the Mexican phone system wasn’t cooperating. January 2nd Another day in paradise, life is good. Today, we take Sandra, Marnee, the kids and Monica to Tenachanita for a day of frolicking in the salt water. Tenachantita is a very large bay with an outer and inner anchorage, about 12 miles north of Barra. We borrowed kayaks from Tundra Spirit. The day was great except for little Jack got seasick. The day was perfect except we needed another 5 hours to frolic in the sun and the surf. There is a restaurant that was made famous in the movie, McHale’s Navy. Famous may be an overstatement. We didn’t have time to investigate but there is always the next time. This movie was shot in this area and in Barra where we anchored in 1995. Steve from Syrus Crosby gave us a spark plug for our outboard. This turned out to be just the medicine for our Honda. We arrived back to Barra after dark and dropped everyone off at the fuel dock to catch a Panga before heading back to the lagoon. 3rd Linda and Brian (off Tundra Spirit) took me to shore so that I could provision with Linda in Melaque. She showed me where all the good shops are for fruits, vegetables, meats and miscellaneous. We came back to Barra and I faxed off our document papers to Downwind Marine who will be shipping our roller reefing parts and outboard Honda engine repair kit (extra parts). Allan stayed on board to do projects on the boat and later we met on shore to swim and go out to dinner at the sports bar to watch the Rose Bowl. Unfortunately, the game was not very good for Nebraska who we were all rooting for. We left in the 3rd quarter and headed back to the boat. 4th Allan and I worked on projects on the boat after sleeping in a bit. Later, we went to the beach to meet Sandra and Marnee and the kids. We also did some shopping with Sandra and Marnee in their quest for their gifts to take home to nannies, friends and family. We had a wonderful dinner at el Olivia, a French restaurant in town. Excellent food and a festive evening with a nightcap back at Marnee and Sandra’s room at the Delfin before we take our dinghy back to the boat. 5th We are sad as we say goodbye to Sandra and Marnee and the kids. We began the day by meeting them at the Grand Bay Golf Course Clubhouse for breakfast. Again we’re the only customers. The service was great and the day was beautiful. We climbed the turret for a view of the area (see picture). The six of us caught the bus back to the hotel and snuck around finally coming to rest in the loungers next to the pools. The kids played on the water slide between the pools and we looked at those that spend the big bucks for a bed and poolside service. There were 3 grass tennis courts, sand and water volleyball courts and beautifully kept grounds. We didn’t get kicked out and had a nice morning. Sandra decked out in her black see-thru bathing suit really look like she belonged. 6th Today Liz and I are cleaning Slainte and doing maintenance projects, changing the oil and filter, wiring the new engine stopping device relay and charging the batteries. 7th We did boat chores, boat engine stopper and change the oil. Liz washed the boat and eventually we met Starform and said goodbye since they are headed to Z-town. We were the guinea pigs for “Pain Killers.” They were great and will explain. X parts rum (your choice), 3 parts pineapple juice, 1-2 parts coconut concentrate and some nutmeg over the top. Yum. 8th We had some exercise and walked on the golf course, called Lil Gem and had lunch and then continued dinner on our boat. The golf fee has come down from $440 to $190 for 18 holes. We walk the many trails of interlocking bricks and finally found the ocean on the other side. We walked the steep sands and watched several of our friends heading south to Z-town, about 250 miles down the coast. At the end of the beach were about 120 pelicans fishing. The fish were exploding in the surf and the pelicans were starting lunch early. After a long walk to the dinghy dock we called Lil Gem for lunch. We enjoyed a great chat as they had been in Tanachitita for the past week. We caught up on boat chat and planned a trip to Manzanillo tomorrow. Later in the evening the four of us had BQ chicken and a great lunch with of course some lovely wine. The wind picked up and kept the mosquitoes at bay. 9th Today was adventure and exploring. Biagio and I went and caught a bus and traveled 40 miles to Manzanillo. This is a large industrial town. We traveled though the countryside and the banana and orange groves. After about 1 hour and twenty minutes we were in the north end of town. Here we located the DHL office and Biagio retrieved his boat parts. Of course not everything was shipped. We caught the local bus to El Centro and located his favorite lunch spot. The waitresses took our order and then asked whether dos or cuarto cervezas were needed. She really didn’t need to inquire. We had fillet of Dorado, with hot sauce, it was great. Lunch and four beers was eight US dollars. This evening we checked email, stopped at the pool, had cinco pina coladas and headed for dinner. Life is smooth. 10th Dinner at Tessa’s with Lil Gem. This is an American Hamburger and shake shop. He and other establishments are really hurting since their customers are far and few between. 11th Today finds Biagio and I surveying the lagoon. We took his dinghy with a depth sounder and my GPS’s and we took soundings with the time and location. I spend some time creating a chart of the lagoon and the channel. We intend to ask the Port Captain to allow us to place several markers so cruisers can find their way into the lagoon without going aground. One out of two boats find their way into the mud as they come into the channel towards the lagoon. We are hoping that with the markers more cruisers will come and help the businesses in Barra. In the evening we find ourselves at Lil Gem learning a domino’s game call Mexican train. It is mindless, allows everyone to talk and we had a wonderful evening. Liz had high score, but the object is to minimize the points. Oh well, better luck next time. 12th Mr. B and I worked on the charts. A new boat tried to enter but went aground. Ah ha, our first customer for our lagoon charts. We met Janet and John on a Westsail, Bambalos. As we chatted with them four more dinghies showed up and we made a date for tomorrow for brunch. All of us helped Bambalos back into the channel. Later, Liz and I were again working on electrical concerns. Just after returning to our respective boats we experienced our first tropical rain shower. In just 3 hours it rained 3+ inches. The boat and all the rigging is much cleaner and the air temperature dropped from 83 to 68 degrees in just an hour. This evening Lil Gem and Slainte did BQ to use our meat before it goes bad. The ladies sure enjoyed themselves. Mathew, their son is a rock climber and is trying to find a way to professionally pursue his passion to climb. His parents would like him to continue in the university, but Matt’s passion needs to be satisfied. Here’s to following your dreams. 13th This was a get together day. The cruisers in the lagoon dinghied off to the Golf Course dock, and walked to the clubhouse for breakfast. This was our largest group that included 10 boats (17 people). We had a lovely time and after the meal we walked to the bar to watch football (futbol, spelled in Mexico). After the first football game we realized that the chairs were very comfortable but the cerveza’s were 30 pesos, or double from Margaritas in Barra. So off to Barra and cheaper beers. Tonight Liz and I are alone for a non-social evening. 14th We headed to the Port Captain so several of us could check out and Biagio and I asked for permission to set several navigation buoys in to the lagoon. (I attached the lagoon chart, but I am uncertain whether Tom can put it on the web) We got permission with the help of Janet from Bambolera, who is fluent in Spanish. Six of us caught the bus to Melaque to shop and do banking. Banking is interesting. First you take a number and find a seat. Depending on the size of the bank there will be 4 to 20 windows each with a number. There is a number board that controsl traffic. We have been to several banks because when you check at a Port the next step is to go to the bank and pay and then take the receipt back to the Port Captain. Four or five years ago the procedure was to pay at the Port Captain. Hummmm? Well anyway the boys went shopping at the auto parts store and the ladies went shopping. John on Bambolera and I tried to find a scuba shop and instead did research on where the cheapest cerveza are. At the cheapest place the men were examining a 6-foot lizard and an Armadillo. Now we know what is in the tamales. 15th We are headed back to Melaque to buy another fuel container. Liz left our brand new container in the vegetables area of the tienda (store). The 20 liter red plastic containers sprouted (were in the veggie area) legs and disappeared. We’re also looking for more tamales and recheck the scuba store. We’ll send this log off today from Melaque since their email is much faster than Barra. Love to each of you. Allan & Liz on Slainte
Log - December 9-24, 2001December 9th I need to figure out the parts to fix this rascal so we can use the roller reefing. I think I can reconnect the forestay but the roller furling will need first aid and parts. The best-laid plans can go array. Liz and I are hoping the shit happens in only threes (mast, alternator and roller reefing). I will try contacting Downwind Marine this morning. Last night we called a man called Jamo on the VHF, a USA “dude” that helps cruisers into San Blas. He has been helping cruisers for 37 years. A couple of our friends on Baloo said to say HI to Jamo and Jan, his wife. Jan is widely known as a big sea fish expert. The local fisherman called her Baby J. After contacting him several cruisers helped us into the bay. They put on their deck lights, turned on and off their spreader lights and directed us with compass bearings and radar stuff in to an easy, open anchorage when it’s light and familiar, but tough anchorage when it is dark. This morning Jamo ran a radio net. About 8 boats checked-in (others were shy and only asked questions, the boats that don’t check-in are called “lurkers”) and folks asked questions about where this or that is and he gave us information on the area. Today is special religious holiday and there is a celebration in town. Jamo (Norm) told us where the Captain de Puerto is, and location of launderette and Internet cafes and his recommendation. He really stressed to haul the dinghy up out of water each night. All throughout Central America cruisers seem to loose their dinghies if they are treated casually. The highlight of Jamo’s net was the weather: In addition to the Pineapple express there are two cold fronts coming down from New Mexico and Arizona. These dissimilar weather systems are colliding in our region. This is the weather that we experienced last night. From the net we learned that there is a fellow, Ishmal, watches dinghies, where the ice cream parlor is, where grocery store is and what roads to find these and when to thumb a ride. I used to do business with a Weyerhaeuser fellow that went to San Blas in the 80’s every year for 3 weeks. He traveled here by train and taxis. He spoke very highly of this place so it will be fun to see it for ourselves. This evening after exploring the town of San Blas, about 14 cruisers met at Continca’s Pizza House and had dinner. (See Picture). We traded sailing stories and challenges. Some cruisers are new at this as we are. Others have been at this for years. December 15 We continued the day by hoping a car ride to San Blas and visited the fort and the church at the fort. The fort was built in 1722, the church was started about the same time was finished in 1770. San Blas was a real Mecca in those days. We next hiked back to town and did some shopping. The other church in San Blas is the same one that Henry W. Longfellow wrote about The Bells of San Blas. He died very shortly after finishing the poem. There is a plaque on the church that has his poem in Spanish and English. It is about dreams and dreamers. December 15, 2001 has been great. We have just anchored in Banderas Bay at a spot called La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, simply known are La Cruz.. We have anchored just behind “Dream Catcher,” our friends we met from Turtle Bay. They have just finished a week at their time-share. Jennifer remarked it was great not to monitor the water she used or how many light were on. It is good to see familiar faces. In the nine hours that it took to reach La Cruz here we caught a Black Skipjack Tuna, a Dorado and 3 Cero Mackerels. We kept the tuna and eat some for a late breakfast. The Dorado was two small and too pretty according to Liz to keep. We should have kept the Ceros; they are supposed to be fantastic. We will not let that happen again. The Ceros are beautiful with yellow spots on their stomach, a grayish blue back and a thin black line down each side. We understand from Allouette de Mer that Maureen wraps bacon around the fillets and slips them on the barbie. Serve with a chilled white wine, ya right who has any wine. It is a tequila diet down here. December 17 We walked and talked, view a great church, said no for the umpteen to
time-share folks, we shopped at several stores and found our way back to the
boat. We marveled at the Pizza Huts, MacDonalds, Hooters and other “American”
hangouts. In all we had a great day. We return to La Cruz and our laundry was
done and our fuel awaited us. Tomorrow we expect to spend the night at Yelapa. Our life on Slainte allows us to be reflective. Slainte is in the world of today’s electronic, i.e. email via a radio and then pangas are coming by with simple needs of fishing hooks, paper and pencils. Electronically in the early morning and early evening we listen to the single side band (SSB) nets. There are several reasons to do so. The SSB and Ham frequencies have many stations, just like on your radio, but these are independent vessels that come together to share information and contact. We are very much interested in what the weather is at certain locations. There are capes and anchorages that can be describe by those present and those who are transiting an area and the information is very valuable. Just like an apple crop that is seasonal, there is a new and old set of cruisers that are traveling in a seasonal direction. We know many of the names of these vessels because to the nets. We are like the progression of a herd to a water hole. These net, or get togethers are giving us weather in front of us as well as what could be behind of us. We are listening to far away stations in Costa Rica, Nicaragua and Panama, as well as what’s happening in Barra de Navidad, Manzanillo, Z-town and south. These are sailboats that give interesting perspectives; diving with hammerhead sharks, locals offering their homes, and perspectives that are new and maybe what we want to investigate. So here we are in a Bahia carved in the coast and we are nearly out of wine. After the wine is a gone, no more reflection. We are really starting to see with new eyes and I hope this reflection will allow us to see further. December 21 December 22 Allan & Liz on Slainte
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